SPF Skincare Founder, Andrea Stewart of The Shades of Melanin
Meet the Black entrepreneur who got tired of looking ashy at the beach and built a sunscreen brand for melanated skin instead. We had a chat with Andrea Stewart, founder of The Shades of Melanin, one of the first Black-owned SPF brands in the UK.
1. Andrea, tell us: what is The Shades of Melanin and what makes it different from every other sunscreen on the shelf?
The Shades of Melanin is a sunscreen brand created specifically with melantated skin in mind. What makes us different is really simple: we actually see our customers. For too long, people of colour have been an afterthought in the SPF market.
Most sunscreens either leave an awful white cast, feel heavy and greasy, or contain harsh chemicals that do our skin no favours. The Shades of Melanin products are designed to protect, nourish and work with melanin-rich skin, not against it. We want our customers to step into the sunshine feeling confident, not self-conscious. ‘Sun kisses never felt so good’ isn’t just our tagline, it’s a promise.
2. Where did the idea first come from - was there a lightbulb moment?
You know, the vision actually came to me over 25 years ago! I was working on cruise ships as a fitness instructor, and on days off, we'd all rush to the nearest beach at every port. I absolutely loved it! But every single time I tried to protect my skin, I hit the same wall: the sunscreens available were either not kind enough for my skin and full of harsh chemicals I wasn’t comfortable with.
Health, fitness, and skincare have always been passions of mine, so I knew how important sun protection was back then. I just couldn’t find a product that worked for me. So the seed was planted but it was during the COVID lockdown that I finally had the time, the focus and the fire to bring The Shades of Melanin to life.
3. So, who did you create The Shades of Melanin for?
My customer is anyone with beautiful melanin-rich skin who has felt overlooked by the mainstream beauty and skincare industry. That could be someone in their twenties heading to a festival, a parent trying to protect their child(ren) on a family holiday or a professional in their forties and beyond who’s finally prioritising their skin health. What unites them is that they’ve probably had one too many experiences of spending money on a sunscreen that did absolutely nothing for them or, worse, made them look grey and ashy.
We deserve to soak up that beautiful Vitamin D whilst being ‘sun smart’ just like everyone else - safely and joyfully.
4. Apart from your personal experience, what evidence told you there was a gap in the market?
The evidence was everywhere once I started looking, and once I started talking. Every person of colour I spoke to had the same story: the white cast; the greasiness; the ingredients that irritated their skin. It wasn’t a niche complaint - it was universal.
Research backs this up too. Studies show that darker skin tones absorb more UV radiation and are more prone to hyperpigmentation, yet the beauty industry has historically developed SPF products without considering these differences. It focuses more on hyperpigmentation products, without considering that prevention is better than cure. Meanwhile, skin cancer in people of colour is often diagnosed at a later stage because the myth that ‘Black don’t crack’ is often interpreted as: ‘Black don’t burn’. Did you know the facts show that if you have experienced sunburn 5 times in your lifetime, you are more prone to contract a melanoma? People of colour absolutely need sun protection; we’re just not catered for. That gap is the market, and The Shades of Melanin is here to fill it.
5. What were the biggest challenges you faced in those early days?
Oh, where do I start??? Formulation was a huge one. Creating a sunscreen that genuinely works for darker skin tones without the white cast, that also feels beautiful on the skin, meets regulatory standards and uses ingredients I’m proud of - that's a complete science. I spent a long time working with formulators to get it right because I refused to put something out there that wasn’t excellent.
Then there’s the challenge every small business owner knows: being seen. Breaking into an industry dominated by big beauty corporations takes serious effort. I also had to build trust from the ground up, educating customers on why melanated skin needs specialised SPF.
Then, of course, there’s funding - or the lack of it. Growing a product-based business as a Black entrepreneur requires investment, and as a Black woman founder, navigating those spaces can come with its own particular set of barriers (a topic for another day!) But every challenge has just made me more determined and resilient.
6. The Shades of Melanin feels like more than a product - it’s a celebration of Black skin. How important is that cultural mission to you?
It’s everything. The name itself - The Shades of Melanin - is a celebration. There's a whole gorgeous spectrum of melanin-rich skin, from the lightest to the deepest shades and every single one of them is worthy of care, protection and joy. Remember - every race on this planet contains melanin; the difference is the amount. We all need to be celebrated as human beings first and foremost.
7. How has the business grown since you launched? What milestones are you proudest of?
The growth has been genuinely exciting. We’ve built a product range that now includes scented and fragrance-free SPF30 lotions, an SPF20 lip protector, and our lovely Simmer Down After-Sun Spray because protection doesn’t stop when you leave the beach.
We've also listened to our customers and will soon be formulating an SPF 45 for those who need higher protection. And seeing the reviews come in - people saying "Finally! A sunscreen that works for my skin" - that never gets old.
8. How are you working to change the conversation around sun protection for people of colour?
Education is a massive part of what we do. There’s a persistent and genuinely harmful myth that people with darker skin do not need sun protection because our melanin protects us - and to a degree that is true. But the amount we inherently have is not enough. We need a top up. Yes, melanin does offer some natural protection but it’s nowhere near enough to shield us from harmful UVA and UVB rays, premature aging, melasma, dark spots, hyperpigmentation or even skin cancer. We need SPF. Full stop.
9. What does the future look like for The Shades of Melanin? What’s coming next?
The future is very bright (pun absolutely intended!) We’re focused on growing our stockist network so that The Shades of Melanin products are more widely accessible, both in the UK and beyond.
We’re also continuing to develop our product range. There’s so much more we want to create for melanated skin across different seasons and skin concerns. . Long term though, I want The Shades of Melanin to be the go-to name in SPF for people of colour globally. The gap in the market is not just a UK problem, it’s a worldwide one.
10. For our ‘last’ question, let’s get up close and personal.
When was the last time you felt genuinely proud of yourself?
When I held our first finished product in my hands. Over 25 years of an idea, and there it was - real, beautiful and exactly what I’d envisioned. I actually teared up a little!
What was the last song you played on repeat?
Has to be the right honourable Robert Nestor Marley (Bob Marley, 'Who The Cap Fits'). Ironically, he passed from a rare melanoma that is particularly common among people of colour. Had he allowed it to be treated medically, maybe he would have still been with us today.
The last meal that made you do a little happy dance.
Come on now - I’m Guyanese. Has to be curry chicken and roti!
The last time you received a memorable gift.
Can I have two? Seeing The Shades of Melanin as a sponsor on the big screen at a huge music event ('Going to Granny's’), and my wonderful supportive partner surprising me with a power suit I wanted to wear to a conference.
The last book that genuinely moved you.
'Swipe' by Nicola Millington. The journey of an entrepreneur can be lonely and you can develop imposter syndrome. This book gives you great coping strategies to build resilience and keep going.
We love what Andrea is building with The Shades of Melanin. If you’re ready to protect your skin, find The Shades of Melanin here and treat yourself to the sun protection your skin has always deserved.